Fit (Anna) Now, (Anna) Party Later

Mic check…is this thing on? ūüôā

I seem to have temporarily¬†neglected¬†my own corner of the internet–oops! I have been BUSY. I have been cleaning the house,¬†spending time with my family and friends, helping my husband fine-tune our homemade Neapolitan-style pizza-making skills (SUCCESS!!!!), and taking another pattern class. On top of all of that, I GOT PROMOTED!!! I am now the Market Research Analyst at the company where I have worked for over 5 years, and I am beyond excited. So with all of this stuff going on, my sewing mojo¬†has been well and truly zapped into oblivion…until now.

(WARNING: lots of words ahead!)

I am mildly ashamed to admit that, apart from the sewing I needed to do for class, I have done hardly anything in my sewing room since I last posted.¬†I did make one thing for myself from a pattern Nina mocked up–it’s a nice, slouchy kimono-sleeved knit top–but I haven’t decided if it’s worth blogging. (I love the top, of course, but it’s not the most exciting thing in the world, particularly for people who are not me!) But recently, something prompted me to get off my ass (couch) and get back¬†on my ass (sewing chair) to tackle a project that has been in my head for a couple of months:¬†a silk maxi dress!

You may be having a total WTF moment right now, and I get it. Of all the things to work on, why a terribly impractical silk maxi dress? If you’ve read here for long, your WTF may be further magnified by your knowledge of the fact that I have never before worked with silk. (Unless purchasing it counts as “working with” it, in which case, I am a boss.) My only explanation is: International Anna Party.

Well, let’s back up: it all started on Instagram. The lovely Ms. Rosie tagged me in a comment on a photo, which turned out to be an “invitation” (this sew-along is open to anyone, so no invite needed; still, I wouldn’t have seen it if not for Rosie!) to participate in the International Anna Party, which is basically a sew-along/post-along celebrating the Anna dress pattern by By Hand London. I actually own every BHL pattern in paper form (thanks to backing their Kickstarter campaign) but have never made one of them; no reason for that, really, apart from being more drawn to other projects. I am aware of there being some debate in the online sewing community as to the quality of independent sewing patterns and the technical expertise¬†of many designers, but I suppose that in the end, I don’t really care too much one way or another. I spend my money how I like, and will deal with whatever fitting issues arise if/when I get around to a particular pattern–that goes for vintage, Big 4, indie, etc.

ANYWAY ( ūüôā ), a couple of months ago I treated myself to an order from Gorgeous Fabrics (aka one of the most dangerous websites on the entire internet if you like amazing fabric) and included some ombre silk crepe that I’d been coveting for a while. I bought 4 yards (at 57″ wide, that was overkill, probably) because I knew what I wanted to do with it: a full-length dress that fully utilized the amazing coloration of the fabric, preferably with a nice, sexy split in the skirt. The Anna pattern was the only one I had in mind, honestly–it seems to look good on everyone who makes it and is very simple, allowing the fabric to really be the star (well, the fabric and whichever leg I choose to reveal). My long-term goal was to have this mythical dress done in time for my company’s holiday party in December–see? Super¬†manageable!–but this Anna Party business gave me an extra push to get started. Just imagine it:

A perfect pairing, if I do say so myself...

A perfect pairing, if I do say so myself…

THAT SILK CREPE, THO. Red to coral to orange and back again, starring Bilbo Baggins...

THAT SILK CREPE, THO. Red to coral to orange and back again, starring Bilbo Baggins and maybe a dragon…

(So far, I am thinking of having the red focused at my waist, fading from orange/coral at my shoulders and then back out again past the waist. Thoughts??)

Obviously, I am aiming to have this dress finished before July 17, so that I can post photos to my Instagram feed (hopefully the entire blog entry will be ready in time, too) during the allowable time frame of the Anna Party. I don’t care about winning any of the prizes; I tend to join sew-alongs (or IG-alongs, apparently!) just for the motivation to finish something. To facilitate this, I have started with my fittings already:

Anna bodice 1.0, back view

Anna bodice 1.0, back view

Anna bodice 1.0, front; note the cringe.

Anna bodice 1.0, front; note the cringe.

The first muslin is straight from the pattern. Thanks to Nina’s teachings, I am learning to see probable fitting issues in a pattern before I do anything with it, but I wanted to see the fit out of the envelope on Anna, since I’ve never made a BHL pattern.¬†It turns out that I need a LOT of fitting adjustments! The most necessary thing was to add length to the bodice, because it came up wayyyyyyy too short for me, as expected. The difficulty is that I needed all that length between my shoulders and bust, as opposed to needing it between my bust and my waist. Do not be deceived by the above photos: I held that bodice down while Tom pinned it to me–it rides wayyyy up. I added 2″ of length and shifted the shoulder seam so that I had more length at the back than the front, and got this:

Anna bodice 2.0, back view; definite improvement, I think

Anna bodice 2.0, back view; definite improvement, I think, apart from Tom’s questionable pinning! ūüėČ

Anna bodice 2.0, front. Still cringing, but a little less. =)

Anna bodice 2.0, front. Still cringing, but a little less. =)

My second muslin confirmed¬†that I need to: stop sewing the pleats about 2″ before where I stopped them on Muslin 2.0 (they were lengthened¬†after v. 1.0), scoop out the front neckline a little, and shift the side seams toward the back by about 1.5″ (tapering to nothing at the armhole). What do you think? Am I on the right track here?¬†I can definitely see an improvement from 1.0 to 2.0, but I worry that I’m suffering from confirmation bias!

Once I get the bodice where I want it, I will be making any complementary changes to the skirt side seams and CF panel seams (if needed), and lopping some inches¬†off of the skirt length. From my waist to¬†the floor, I need about 42″, whereas this skirt is about 46″ as drafted. And bear in mind that, at 5′ 8.5″ tall, I am taller than the average bear lady. I suspect that the extra length is due to Anna’s designers opting to factor in very¬†high heels (rather than drafting for exceptionally tall people), but I am not intending to wear mine with more than a 2.5″ heel. I’ll do the math after all this other jazz gets worked out though–priorities, people!!

Speaking of jazz, I will leave you with a shot of me in all my vintage glory, 1920’s style! As many of you know, vintage is what got me into sewing in the first place, and I still adore it (despite my foray into more modern sewing projects of late). I was fortunate to be asked to assist with an event at a local historic mausoleum, which involved me talking to people and looking nice and era-appropriate. Easy as pie! ūüôā I had not gotten to wear “Princess Peach” (yes, I named both of my 1920’s evening gowns) yet, so she was the obvious choice for the evening. She looks pretty good for ~90 years old, huh?

20's silk gown, early 1900's ivory pendant, and 1920's (or earlier) metal mesh handbag!

20’s silk gown, early 1900’s ivory pendant, and 1920’s (or earlier) metal mesh handbag!

In Which A Plot Is Hatched

Happy Wednesday, people!

Not much to report over here: still busy as hell and completely unproductive, mostly. But I thought I’d share what I’m planning for my next selfish project…

An entire outfit, OMG!

An entire outfit, OMG!

That’s right: TWO ITEMS. AT ONCE. Whoa. If you’ve read my blathering before, you probably recognize Simplicity 1281. Between the ease of the project and the way it looks on me, this is probably going to be my first-ever TNT pattern. And this upcoming version will be even easier than my first, since I plan to do the strapless version. The only bad thing is that I will have to do some grading down at the waist since I won’t be able to rely on the suspenders to hold it up, but whatevs. I’ve got a gorgeous bottom-weight glazed black linen picked out for it, too. I had originally earmarked that material for a bolero or blazer-type jacket when I bought it from Gorgeous Fabrics last year, but I felt like this was a better use of it for now. (Plus I am sure I’ll have enough left over for that jacket–for some reason, I bought 4 yards. WTF, Past Mads?????)

Advance 6426 is one of the patterns that was gifted to me by our cousin Kathy, whose mother Mary bought it when it was new. I found this pattern in my second filing box (see?? That’s why you should always look through EVERYTHING.) and saw that cuffed short-sleeved version–in a plaid, no less–and knew it was the one I wanted to use with my orange and black silk/cotton voile. It’s pretty much exactly the shirt I envisioned for that material! I will have to muslin this one first, since the bust measurement for this pattern¬†is too small; I’m tiny, but my ribs ain’t no 30″! Because of that, I’ll be doing the skirt portion of the outfit first. (Also, I’ve never sewn silk–or a silk blend–before, and I’m beyond nervous and haven’t bought any spray starch yet.) And because this wasn’t enough…

A surprise shirt for the hubs!

A surprise shirt for the hubs!

…I’m hoping to start on View C of this shirt for Tom at some point. I bought two fabrics–one that I’m okay with using as a potentially wearable muslin, and a nice lightweight flannel that I’m hoping will be the big surprise–so that I can make this for him in time for fall. Luckily, he owns a few shirts similar to this that I can measure beforehand and use for comparison. I’m planning on this one being a true surprise, unlike my not-so-secrety surprise Christmas gift. He doesn’t even know I have the fabrics. He isn’t the snooping type, so hopefully he doesn’t decide to go digging around in my sewing room!

I also reorganized my stash a little bit. I pulled EVERYTHING out of my one and only bin and refolded some pieces that were a hot mess. I also tried to arrange them in some kind of order when they went back in: stuff that isn’t pre-washed on the bottom, followed by stuff I have no plans for and am not likely to use right away, followed by stuff meant for bottoms, followed by stuff meant for dresses, followed by stuff meant for blouses, followed by vaguely queued projects (like my trench fabric). Somehow–I’m assuming the laws of physics are involved here–not everything that was in the bin would go back into it. That’s even after scrap fabric got moved into an empty box to save room. ūüė¶ I moved Tom-centric materials to my cedar chest upstairs (which will help with the super duper sewing surprise), and left all of my new silk/cotton voile (including the orange and black check) and nice J. Crew shit in the box it came in on the dining room table. My glazed linen is also on the table. Ugh ugh ugh. I guess that means I’d better get busy, huh?